Do your lips know the difference?
"Digital anthropology is a hybrid field that examines the implications of digital technologies on human behavior, identity, social organization, interactions, and effects (Geismar & Knox, 2021; Horst & Miller, 2012). Media literacy is “the ability to access, analyze, evaluate, create, and act using all forms of communication” (NAMLE, n.d.). Through this project, you’ll observe, notice, document, analyze, and reflect on how media and technology impacts everyday life. A key aspect of this project is the reflective component where you will describe what you have learned about yourself and media literacy as it relates to broader social concerns and community membership" (Redmond).
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I identified a specific issue related to media, technology, and society and collected short, daily videos and photo observations on that topic using 1 second everyday throughout the semester. ​
Introduction
For my Digital Anthropology project, I wanted to document something that had both frustrated and interested me in my daily life. I have always been a bit of an over-consumer, especially when it comes to makeup. There’s something so fun about unboxing and trying a new product. I also associate this love with my passion for design and packaging.
I have always taken notice of different brand aesthetics and how the public reacts to certain types of design. It’s no secret that people gravitate toward what they find visually appealing, especially in the makeup industry. Within this industry, there are two distinct sides: the drugstore side, which is more accessible and affordable, and the high-end side, which is more expensive but also carefully curated by the brand. Owning something high-end often places you in a higher social status. You want people to know you're using a $25 lip balm because it’s considered “cool.”
This brings me to my frustration and why I specifically wanted to focus on the lip-moisturizing market. With a product like lip balm, creators aren’t offered many options when it comes to the ingredients they use. Whether it’s $3 or $25, the majority of these products share the same core ingredients. This means, as with many things in life, you are ultimately paying for the brand name, the cute packaging, and the associated status.
This frustrates me greatly because of the overwhelming similarity in the actual product and the excessive consumption it encourages.
Analysis
I wanted to document what I encountered on a day-to-day basis. Every time I went into a store or came across a video showcasing new lip balms, I collected it. Part of my goal was to observe the sheer volume of media that I—and likely many others—consume, which influences us to buy things we don’t need. As I conducted this documentation, a few patterns emerged. I noticed a significant focus on “dupes”—replicas of high-end products offered at a more affordable price point. I also saw many people using e-commerce features on apps to profit from influencing others to purchase these lip balms. Additionally, I frequently came across videos of people showing off their collections of lip products.
These videos were almost always presented in an ASMR style and were shocking to watch due to the sight of bins and drawers overflowing with unnecessary products. There was never an explanation for why they owned so many items—perhaps they were from PR packages or purchased individually—but the underlying message in these videos was clear: overconsumption. I find "dupe culture" particularly interesting. I’ve always supported the idea that people with less financial means should be able to enjoy fun and trendy products just like everyone else. However, I’ve noticed that dupe culture has gotten out of hand in recent years.
I came across a video on TikTok of a girl discussing boot dupes, and her perspective was fresh and insightful. She talked about how some products really don’t need replicas. These dupe products are often made with lower quality and perpetuate the idea that you should own everything and follow every trend—whether you can afford it or not. What struck me most was her observation that no one saves up for things anymore. It feels like the act of saving money and waiting for something you truly want has disappeared. Convenience, speed, and quantity have increased, while quality has declined.
After gathering so many videos as evidence, I finally took time to research this phenomenon further. I examined the ingredients of three of the most popular lip balms. Unsurprisingly, I found that they all contained the same base ingredients, with only minor changes in scents or flavors. Despite this, these lip balms are marketed in ways that trick you into thinking you’re buying something entirely new. Brands rely on differences in names, packaging, and descriptions to make their products seem innovative. For example, instead of calling it a "lip balm," they might call it a "lip butter," "lip treatment," or "lip mask." These new terms are designed to convince consumers that they’re getting the latest advancement in lip moisturizers, even though the product itself hasn’t really changed.
Reflection
After completing this project, I began thinking about the impact of media and how it relates to critical thinking, particularly understanding why certain products are marketed to us. In this context, critical thinking reminded me of the importance of maintaining skepticism about what we see. Buckingham states, “Thinking critically about media means developing a healthy skepticism about some of these grand claims—and perhaps particularly those about media power and media effects” (Buckingham).
When learning about the questions that guide critical thinking, the one that resonates most with my project is number five of the Five Core Concepts: “Most media messages are organized to gain profit and/or power” (CML). When brands market their products, they often make grand claims and use strategic tactics to capture attention. This includes branding choices, such as carefully selected words to describe their products, specific colors, packaging textures, and showcasing who is using them. One major tactic is leveraging PR to place products in the hands of influential figures. With TikTok, overconsumption has become even more widespread. Pairing a product with a video that demonstrates its real-life use, provides critiques and compliments, or gives a real-time review is a powerful tool for companies. Consumers tend to trust regular people over corporations, but now companies pay these "regular people" to speak positively about their products. This brings us back to the importance of skepticism about the intentions of these companies. Almost all the time, their primary goal is simply to generate profit.
This is why I reiterated the idea that many of these products consist of the same ingredients. In today’s world, it’s crucial to be informed about our purchases. We need to understand why we are being influenced to buy certain products and recognize the problem of overconsumption.
Media has an unparalleled ability to manipulate consumers into buying whatever appears on their screens. It doesn’t stop there—companies use this data to target you with even more products they think you might like. It didn’t escape my notice that because I spent time watching, screen-recording, and taking notes on lip care videos, I was subsequently shown more of the same type of content. My data was tracked to determine that I enjoyed this type of video, making me a prime target for further marketing campaigns and more likely to spend money on these products. Being educated in media literacy has allowed me to recognize what is happening right before my eyes, and it’s important for more people to develop this ability as well.
Resources
Buckingham (2019) Chapter 5 "Going Critical"
CML (2005) “Five Key Questions That Can Change the World”
TikTok
Youtube
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Media in this assignment has been compiled for educational purposes.
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